Combined cemented and turned shoe and method of making same



Sept. 12, 1933. w SHH'AKOWWZ 1,926,656

COMBINED CEIIENTED AND TURNED SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed March13, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR ATTORN EY Sept. 12, w SHIM'KQWITZCOMBINED CEHBNTED AND TURNED SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed March13, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 ATTORNEY vide a shoeyc-f-iinprovedcharacteristics, espe-Q 'minimum expense, but the cornpletedarticle isFigure is ate-perspective view ifroml under not as high-class orasstylislr as the turned neath, showing a shankstifi ener insole member1? variety, On the otherhand, a better lit and contour at the shank canusually be attained. by"

Patented Sept. 12, 1933 'ootmInEncnr/rnNrEnANn TURN D, snort nnnme'rnonOF MAKING sinus {g a William shimkowitzyll rooklyn, nqyf i V "j'ApplicationlMarch 13,1931; serial na sz'asos eclai s. (cilia-142)" Mypresent invention relates generally to footwear,' and has particularreference to turned shoes, and, coordinately, to an improved andnovelmethodof constructing suchshces. It is a general object of myinventiontmpr'ocially with' respect to the outward appearance thereofandthe manner ing-whichthe several parts are associated.*Moreparticularly, it is an object of my invention to proviclea shoe construction, and a method of producing the same,

whereby all theadvantageous characteristics of turned shoes areobtained,- while manyoi the disadvantages thereof are obviated, i

The better class and relatively expensive shoes are customarily oftheturnied lvariety, having embodying careful and staunch, workmanship.On theother hand, the procedural steps involved require highly skilledlabor and are relativelyexpensive. Also, although the contour of theshee' at the forward portion thereof is usually of enhanced Icharacter;difficulties are sometimes encountered in obtaining thereq uisit'esmooth contour at the shank portion of the shoe; -f

In a shoe-construction. where the qsole'is cemerited into position,ftheextreme simplicity of the procedure and of the finished shoe results inthe cementing procedure,

,' My present invention aims to combine the ade 'vantageous features of;both of these well known processes, and has foritsgohject the-provisionof ashoe which is in part a turned shoe and in part a ceinented shoe.invention relates also to .a method or carrying out this generalobjective.

and to construct the shank and; rear portions of .theyfinished shoe'isjof highly eff cient and rugged, yet attractive andstylish,character;

. A still further object of [my inventionlies inthe, present invention;ahigh-class and stylish outward appearance and bodying the sole memberjof fiig'ure '7 and parent sole member are marginally beveled-while; the[forward-portion is marginally shouldered; In M :It isa feature of myinventicm for eggample to v construct the forward portion: eff-the jshoein much the same manner as 'turnedshoes are made, v

1 what will shoe -n carriedy out-in connection with cementing'profeature of my inventionliesin-armanner illustratively exemplified,in theaccornpanying ;drawings;, wherein-r- Eigurel is alpl'an-yiew erses member con-V strimted: in accordance with j m'y present in ve' r --vont...

Figure; is h substantiallyialong the line 2 -2: of Figure 1 Figure- 3 isa fragmentary cross-section taken substantiallyalong the line33iofFigure- 1;;f t

Figure 4 is a viewrsimilar toFigurqLshowing the" sole member injpositionupon a lastwith an. upper associated therewith in accordancewith Figure5 isa perspectiye lviewof aniassenibly .upqnla. last, showinga' furtherstage of-the proj edu e; 1 r

: Figure- 6 is az perspectiye view of h a completed 2, shoe of thepresent character; i V w V Figure '7 is aperspective view. of asolemember of slightly, modified construction; I

Figure 8- is a perspective view o-f a shoe emtiallycompleted;

Figureflis aview the shoeihcompletedcondition; 4 Y

suitable material, and is usual y 0f 8r st ip f" leather ofsubstantially" uniful'mi thickness ex- 7 ceptthat :the'shank and rearportions of the prie's Figure; the forward portionflof the memberis"shown: at the right; anditis noted that-the pee riphery is reducect atgthefmidportion to form The forward portion providedwithga of reducedthickness, thereby defining a shoulder 16 disposed outwardly and lyingadjacent to and slightly behind the peripheral edge of the member e*ispractically at. the shankzportion; andre'am J I v wardly otthepoints;Hand 18the. marginal edge l5. Thisshoulder terminates at thepointsjdesighated by the reference numerals 11and18;;which a fragmentary crosssectior'i taken similar .tO Figure'S; {showing Vtim'atelybethe'shanhiportion ofjthethe' prjovision of a nov el type ofsole member or element which finds particular; applicability in ftheshoulderf =16 merging withthis tapered edge or H ,the carrying outoithe; present invention; V

of themembenlSisftapered or beveled, as-at- IQ, no

Behind the shoulder 16 and paralleling the latter is a cut or channel 20which extends obliquely downwardly toward the edge of the sole member 15but does not extend entirely through is stitched to the forwardmarginally shouldered and channeled portion of the sole member in 'beturned, to conceal the stitches. accomplished in the mannerillustrated'most the sole member, as shown most clearly in Figure such amanner that the assembly may thereafter This may be clearly in Figure 4.The forward portion of the sole member .15, viz., that portion whichliesapproximately to the right of the line 21 of-Figure 1, is'firstmoistened in order to make it more pliable. .Themember l5 isthentackedonto the upper-face of a last, as for example, by means of the'tacks22 of Figure-'4. An upper 23 'isithen drawn over the last and theedge of the forward portion thereof is stitched, as at'24, to theshoulder 16; the stitches extending through thisshoulder and into thechannel 20. The-upper usually consists of a number of plies, including alining,

a box toe membenfand the 111m; but for the purpose of describing thepresent invention, the

. reference numeral 2 3has beenapplied to the upper as a unit.

In stitching the forward portion of the upper, as at 24, to the shoulder16', the'upper"is-'arranged'with its-wrong side out, so that after therough edges are trimmedoff,'the. assembly may be removed fromthelast'fand turned inside out,v

thereby-concealing the stitches"24 and exposing understood by thoseskilledin the art.

. not only the right side. of the upper but also con- 40 the reducedperipheral edge of the forward por cealing the shoulder lfi and, leavingnothing but tion of the sole member 15"visi ble. V

Prior to applying the stitches 24 theedge of the upper 23fmayfifdesired, betacked into tem- "the" marginal"portiohof' the insole member26 andiithe free, andasyetunattached, edge of the upper is drawn over 1the'last and temporarily held in firm engagement with the .adhesivelycoated marginofrthe -n'1embe'rf26 by means. of tacks 2'7 orthe like.Thisprocedure permits the upper to-be fitted snugly andfefliciently tothe contour of the last 25 so that when the shoeis ultimately completedthe shank and-rear portions thereof will" have a smooth and highlyattractive configuration and appearanc'e'. "i ii i h After the adhesive.bond between the member 26 and the upper 23 has reached'a po'int wherethe tacks27 areno longer necessary, the latter are removed, althoughjitwill beunderstood that 'cerytain of the tacks, especially the tacks28"associated with the heel portion, mayI rernain' in permanentassociation withthe finished construction, this'being accomplished byinserting a highly efiicient and smooth character.

secured to the insole member and to j employed with my presentconstruction;

metal plate upon the heel portion of the last 25 sothat when the tacks28 are driven in they are permanently attached to the insole member 26,being clenched into a flattened condition by this metallic member.

After the tacks 27 have been removed, the edge of the upper 23 istrimmed to a desired extent', a'nd at thisstage of theprocess ashankstiffening element 29, in the form of a strip of steel, for example, maybe applied to the insole member 26, as, for example, by means of a rivetor tack 30 at the rear end thereof.

Cement or similar adhesive is then placed on the inner surface'of thesole 15, and especially upon the beveled marginal portion 19 thereof,and the sole is then firmly pressed down upon the last to'cau se it tounite in an adhesively bonded condition with the upper 23 and with theinsole member '26; This may advantageously be accomplished ina cementingmachine or the like.

Thereafter, the desired heel is affixed. in the usual manner, as,for'example, by trimming the outer marginal edge-of the'solel5 aroundthe heel portion or heel seatand by adhesively securing a wooden heel orthe like, or by driving such 1' heel'into position by means of' tacks orsimilar instrumentalities: r v H Finally, the shoe embodies theappearance of Figure'6yin which, itwill be noted, a Cuban heelSl'hasbeen illustratively shown by way of exampIeQ-In this finishedshoe, the forward portion thereof presents the outward I stylish andhigh class-appearance of a turned shoe, while the contour of the shoe atthe shank portion is of a In Figure 7,1 have illustrated a modified sole32 h'avin'g the forward portion provided with the marginal shoulder- 33and with the channel 34,

the shoulder merging;as hereinbefore mentioned,

at or; near the points 35 and 36 with a marginally beveled or taperedportion 37 which extends around the shank and rear portions. In thiscon-- struction, the heel portion of the sole member-32 is splitlongitudinally to provide a flap 38 which p,

is ultimately disposed beneath the shoe, as shown in Figure 8, foradhesive attachment to the'heel breast 39 ofa'heel 40. This type ofconstruction is particularly advantageous'inconnection with a Frenchheel of the character shown in Figures 8 and 9,- this heel having agradually curved 1 heel breast which merges in'a'graceful curve'with thecurvature of the shank portion of-the' sole. In Figure 8, I have .shown'the flap 38 in its unfinished and unattached conditiomand in Figure 9,this flap is shown-in completedassocia 'tion with the heel 40. Q Theattachment of'the upper 41 to'the sole 32 is accomplished in practicallythe same manner as heretofore"described, the 'forward portion thereofbeing stitched to the shoulder- 33' in an inside-out condition,and'th'e'n turned; while the shank and rearfportions of the upper 41 arethe outer sole32 by adhesivemeahs. Y

insole members of ;the character that may be .The member" 26 of Figure10 corresponds with the is shown secured to the under-side of thismember-atthe points 43 and 4 4 The inember' 42, which -isga shankstiffener, may be attached .to

In Figures 10 and 11, I have shown'two; typical the element 26" beforethe latter is-placed upon onenailor tack as' at the point in Figure 5',this tack encountering the metal, plate herein before referred to andbeing. thereby clenched into a permanent flattened condition VjInFigure', 11, the insolemember has been illustratively shown with ashank stiifener 46 having --a wider forward portion 47 which may, forexample, be secured to the member 45 at the '-points 18 and 49.

variety of ways.

It W111i thus be seen that I have provided a shoe of new and uniquecharacteristics and ap-' pearance, together with an improved and sim-ObVifplified-process of producing such a shoe. ously, the specificdetails of procedure that'l have outlined herein have been given merelyby .way of illustration and may be alte'redto suit differingrequirements. For example, the contour of the sole member may be alteredin a The shoulder 16 may be of any desired extent and may, extend eitherless than the distance illustratively given or further toward the rearof the shoe; and the channelmay be made to extend a proportionatedistance.

' Similarly, the unstitchedportion of the shoe may be assembled in any,desired manner, although I have found the procedure herein describedas'one. which is highly efiicient and satise In general, it will beobvious that changes in the details herein described and illustrated forthe purpose of explaining, the nature of myEin-f ,vention may be madeby. thoseskilled in the art'- without, departing from'the spirit andscope of the invention as expressed in the appendedclaims. 'It isthereforein'tendedthat thesedetails be interpreted'as illustrative, andnot in a limiting sense.

V Hayingthus described my invention and illus-f v trated its use, whatIclaim as new and'desire to secure by Letters Patent is V 1. In a shoe,an upper, and a sole therefonthe lower edge of the forward portion ofthelupper. being stitched to the corresponding forward por tion of thesole, the rear portion of the upper f and sole being unstitched,andthelower edge of the reariportion of the upper being adhe sively securedto the corresponding'rear portion of the sole. I i

2. In a shoe, an upper, a sole therefor, anda shank-piece overlying theshank-portion of' said sole; the lower edge of the forward portion ofthe upperbeing stitchedto-the forward portion solev being unstitched,and the loweredge of the shankportion of the upper being adhesivelysandwitched between said shank piece and the shank portion of j thesole. 7

v 3. Ina turned shoe, a sole having amarginal shoulder around onlytheforward portion'there- 7 r of and a channel located inwardly of saidshoulof the sole, the rear portion of the upper and} der-andterminatingat the shank portion of the forward portion-thereof stitchedto saidshoulder, the rear portion of theupper and sole being unstitched, thestitches extending through said shoulder into said ohanneLand theloweredge of therear portion of the upper being adhesively 4. In a turnedshoe, a sole having'a marginal shoulder around its forward: portion andhaving an unshouldered, taperededgerearwardly of said securedto the rearportions of the sole,

edge of its forward portion stitchedto said shoulhaving the loweredge-of its rear portion adhe-c sively secured to the inner face ofsaid, unshouldered, tapered edge 'of the sole;

5. ,Theherein-describ'ed lmethodof making a 5 7 turned shoe, whichconsists in stitching the for.- v ward edge of, an upper to the forward,marginala 1y shouldered portion of, ,a"sole, leaving the shank and heelportion of the upper and sole unstitched, turning the assembly insideout to conceal said stitching, applyingthe assembly to last, stretchingthe lower edge of theunstitched shank and heelportion of the upper overthe last, and adhesively securing theuunstitched portion of the .soleto'said lower edge of the unstitched.

shank andheel portion of the upper. a r 6.,The herein-described methodof "making a turned shoe, which consists in stitching the; forsole, andan upper'having the lower edge of the; Y c 7 .forwardportion, and anupper havingthe lower der and clearing'the inner face of said sole and 10 wardgedge of anupper to the forward, margin .al1y=sho1i1dered portionof a sole, turning then b assembly inside out to'conceal said stitching,se-

cu-ring an insolememberto a'lastjapplying thef v turned assemblyto saidlast, drawing andsecur ing lthe'lower edge-poi the unstitchediportion ofe :the upperover the marginal portion of said in 2 ;sole member, andfinallybementing the un L stitched portion of the 'solecto said loweredge.

.WILLIAM sHrM owrrzf- Y

